The Gate to the Timeless Mountain

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The mountain to say the least looked charmingly inviting and despite its earlier reported ascents, the southern face looked interesting. The peaks around Pt. To the extreme west are the twin peaks of Pt. The broken ridgeline from the twin peaks moves further to the north and northeast. At the head of the valley, the ridge coming from the twin peaks takes a U turn and rises up to Pt.

From Pt. From m, a serrated corniced ridgeline moves south and east, before culminating at Pt.

The ridge further continues unabated southeast to the m high Kakstet Kangri, with its east ridge finally moving in a south easterly manner, before merging into the broad shoulders of the m high Shimdi la. Our last objective of Pt.

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On the Survey of India map, the southeast ridge from m, from the col rising to the m is known as Kangju Ri the world 'Kangju' means a 'revered place', and Ri, 'mountain'. Thus we named m as Kangju Kangri 4 and the shapely, serpentine, tri headed glacier below as the Kangju glacier. The villagers, who inhabit the southern shores of the lake, also refer to Pt. The move from Tangtse, between the Pangong and the Ladakh ranges on either side was a fascinating drive. Base camp was established on 23 August at m, overlooking the confluence of Keunglung and Tasta lungpa.

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Our date with these mountains had begun at last. Camp 1 was established at m, next to a small glacial lake on 24 August. With Kangju Kangri towering above and with the milky white ice pinnacles of the icefall of the glacier virtually drowning into the lake, this vast amphitheatre seemed a stark, barren, desolate, heaven on earth.

On 25 Sept, I, along with five members, carried out a detailed recce of the Kangju glacier.

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We traversed the entire glacier, which is approximately 5 x 3 kms to its headwall and had a first look of the northwest ridge of Kangju Kangri. I studied the northwest ridge and the south face and finally decided on a direct line, up the south face of the mountain. Uncomfortably, the complete south face is dominated by a rather treacherous looking, uninviting, rocky boulder strewn ridgeline with traces of loose rock, which were in abundance at this time of the year.

This seemed the best proposition up this beautiful face. Camp 2 was established and occupied on the eastern lateral moraine of the Kangju glacier, at m, on 27 August. The ascent of Kangju Kangri m Kangju Kangri is the highest mountain of the Pangong and Ladakh range, with an interesting south face. The access to the face is up a steep gully, which itself is a mixture of complex rock and ice - 'a perfect funnel' for anything coming from top.

On 28 August, the summit team comprising of seven members, and myself left Camp 2 at hours. Despite our best efforts the intense cold made it difficult to start earlier. It was a windy day, which made it worse. After crossing the Kangju glacier, we hit the gully.

Daniel Duffield

A huge yawning crevasse on the glacier, had to be negotiated, to get to the base of the gully from where the actual climb began. Seven rope lengths were fixed, with the route hugging the western side.


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There was constant fall of loose stones in the gully, which indeed was a perfect funnel. Our movement in the gully thus had to be quick and fast, which it was. The terrace was finally gained on top of the gully, from where we confronted the south face of the mountain. The face itself at this time of the year was marble hard white ice, with objective dangers of loose rock looming large from top. The slope to begin with was concave, which soon to my grave disliking gave way to a convex slope. Above this was knee to thigh deep soft snow, which made the going extremely laborious, time consuming and dangerous.

The complete face itself was threatened by the ever lurking danger of big and loose rocks, which seemed to be menacingly eyeing our progress and every move. At hours, which was quite late in the day and when we were still 50m short of the summit, I called off the summit attempt. I took the decision primarily due to the fading light, increasing wind and unstable snow conditions. We had been on our feet climbing for almost hours and yet the summit had eluded us!

It had been a classic case of being so close, yet so far. After resting and regaining our strength on 29 August, we made the second summit bid on 30 August. I changed our alignment of the high point reached on 28 August and went in for an even a more direct line of ascent.

We criss-crossed the old fixed ropes of the perhaps ITBP Pre-Everest expedition and finally at hours, the first member reached the summit. The nearly m summit ridge of Kangju Kangri, is dangerously corniced with the mountain plunging into an abyss on the north side.

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The summit itself was a conical, corniced high point, with the last visible rock some 10 m below. Carefully belaying each other we, trod on to the top. From the top, we had a fantastic all round view of the entire Pangong Tso, the Great Karakorams, Phobrang and the Changchenmo range. The Chushul bowl and our objectives of Pt. I could also see the profile of the northwest ridge of Pt. After spending 30 minutes on the summit, we commenced our descent and staggered into the safe confines of Camp 2, reaching at hours.

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As part of our environment cleaning and commitment to the cause, on our way down we managed to open most of the fixed ropes. As the leader, I was elated and heaved a sigh of relief - for our young team, most of whom were climbing for the first time, it had been a great summit!

Ascent of Pt. On 01 Sept after attempting Pt. It was established and occupied the same day. Upinder and myself after the climb of Kangju Kangri joined the second fresh team for the attempt on Pt. From Camp 2, the true summit of Pt m was not visible. On 02 Sept, eleven of us left Camp 2 at hours. It was a cold day with spindrift blowing and hitting us hard. We roped up and moved in two groups on the ice face, on the southeast ridge of the mountain.

At hours, we reached the south summit from where a long corniced ridge had to be negotiated. The summit of Pt. The fully corniced ridge was narrow at places, with the west face dropping almost vertically down to the glacier below. We were surprised to find crevasses on the summit ridge, which with the spindrift blowing hard into our faces, were time consuming to negotiate.

At hours, I stood on the summit of Pt. Unlike Kangju Kangri there was enough space for all of us to stand, yet we were all roped up, as we were treading again on a corniced summit. It was a grand view all around. The ascent of Pt. With the weather packing up and the afternoon clouds announcing their arrival, we quickly descended and were back at Camp 2, at hours.

Ascent of Kakstet Kangri, m Kakstet Kangri is a shapely, attractive and a revered mountain, which can be seen from Kakstet village. It is located on the southern bank of Pangong Tso and is named after the village of Kakstet. The mountain lies 2 km further south west of Pt. After the ascent of Pt.

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Our camp, which was sited under the shadow of the gradual, but majestic Shimdi la was a big 'wind howler'. They reached the tip of the receding glacier, which is on the southeastern face of the mountain at hours. It was an All-in-One and One-in-All of limitless being and self—not merely a thing of one Space-Time continuum, but allied to the ultimate animating essence of existence's whole unbounded sweep—the last, utter sweep which has no confines and which outreaches fancy and mathematics alike.

It was perhaps that which certain secret cults of earth have whispered of as YOG-SOTHOTH, and which has been a deity under other names; that which the crustaceans of Yuggoth worship as the Beyond-One, and which the vaporous brains of the spiral nebulae know by an untranslatable Sign Yog-Sothoth sees all and knows all.

To "please" this deity could bring knowledge of many things. However, like most beings in the mythos, to see it or learn too much about it is to court disaster. Some authors state that the favor of the god requires a human sacrifice or eternal servitude. According to the genealogy Lovecraft devised for his characters later published as "Letter " in Selected Letters , Yog-Sothoth is the offspring of the Nameless Mists , which were born of the deity Azathoth.


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